Prada: a Fusion of Time, Romance and Bows

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have consistently ruled Milan Fashion Week, setting new standards season after season. The two masters unveiled their latest creation, the Fall/Winter 2024 collection called 'Instinctive Romance,' at the usual venue, Milanese Fondazione Prada. Mirroring the Menswear collection's runway, the show space featured transparent floorboards revealing an evergreen landscape of grass, ferns, and a crystal-clear stream underneath, reflecting the inescapable bond between humans and the natural outdoors.

With a nod to nostalgia and a touch of romance, Prada and Simons meticulously wove together fragments of bygone eras and future visions, crafting what defined the present moment. Ideal for office attire, the structured tailoring reminiscent of the 50s evoked a sense of strength and sophistication. Yet, deconstruction techniques elevated the tailoring, intriguing people to question which side is the front or back. Prada never failed to juxtapose masculinity and femininity, showcasing a harmonious balance between these contrasting sides, ranging from a structured tailor suit featuring a lace-trimmed slip dress underneath to a motorcycle jacket paired with a deconstructed skirt.

Amid the conventional fall-winter color schemes, Prada included powdery pastels and bold, bright colors, adding liveliness and vibrancy to the seasonal aesthetic. Pastel dresses and colorful knitwear gave a refreshing contrast to the classic black and grey tailoring. In addition, various shades of purple graced the collection throughout, from hats to garments and shoes.

What truly captivated me about this collection was their resounding affirmation that bows and a coquette aesthetic remained at the forefront of the fashion world. As seen in numerous looks, Bows took center stage as prominent embellishments that infused the collection with an undeniable feminine and sweet allure. And let's not overlook the accessories – fuzzy military hats, pointed-toe shoes, and Prada's beloved bags like the Cleo and Galleria, now adorned with straps, were prominently featured. Models effortlessly carried them, dangling from their elbows, embracing a chic granny-chic vibe with a modern fashion twist.  

Illustration by Da 90's Kid; photo courtesy of Prada / Isidore Montage; Armando Grillo for Gorunway.com / Alessandro Garofalo for Reuters

Louis Vuitton Men by Pharrell Williams

After the passing of the late legend Virgil Abloh, the position of Louis Vuitton Men's creative director has been empty for two years; many have been predicting who will take over this role and harness this department. Finally, the parent company LVMH announced earlier this year that they named Pharrell Williams the next creative director of menswear. At first, I was a bit dissatisfied and wished they had hired familiar veteran designers or emerging fresh talents rather than a celebrity. Yet, Williams' debut collection changed my mind.

The most anticipated collection of the year debuted in the heart of Paris at the historical Pont Neuf covered in golden Damier. Aside from Williams' family, everyone from Jay-Z and Beyonce to Naomi Campbell and Kim Kardashian and the house's ambassadors — Zendaya, Jackson Wang, and Song Joong-ki, to name a few — flocked to Paris's oldest bridge to witness this epic occasion. Some came to see, while some came to walk. Stefano Pilati (Saint Laurent's former creative director) and Dao-Yi Chow (Brady's creative director) joined the model cast.

As one of the world's most prominent fashion icons, Pharrell Williams proved his keen sense of style as the new creative director of Louis Vuitton. His inaugural collection blended homage to the house's legacy with his distinctively personal style, and it crushed the emerging aesthetic of Quiet Luxury with more Louis Vuitton's eye-catching elements than you can imagine. The Damier, one of Louis Vuitton's most renowned patterns, was reintroduced as Damouflage (Damier meets Camo) and dominated the collection from garments to accessories; the regular Damier and monograms in different colors were also part of the collection. They served an array of ensembles, ranging from impeccably neat dandy attire and retro sportswear to effortlessly chic pajamas. Furthermore, we can also notice numerous references to Williams' favorite pieces, such as Chanel's knit jacket, round sunglasses, and hats in various shapes, all reimagined and shown in the collection. 

Never forget about their exquisite leather goods; the collection included redesigned versions of Louis Vuitton's signature bag models - Alma, Noé, and Trunk - in varied sizes, hues, and materials. In a captivating campaign cameo alongside Rihanna, the show-stopper Speedy Bags were converted from LV's famed brown canvas to soft leather in brilliant shades - especially €1M Speedy made of yellow crocodile leather with a pave diamond lock, which would drive LV devotees crazier. 

What is the benefit of having a musician as a director? The answer is that he also produced the soundtrack for his show. This debut presentation comprised two original compositions by Willaims. When the gospel choir 'Voices of Fire' began to perform the collaborative song 'Joy (Unspeakable)' and models trouped out at the finale - delivering the celebratory vibe - I could sense the absolute joy, as its name implies.

BIFW2022: Asava 'Time to Focus on What Matters'

Famed for its timelessness and sophistication, Asava by Polpat Asavaprapha returned to the runway for Bangkok International Fashion Week 2022. Over three years since the outset of the pandemic, the most anticipated fashion event, BIFW, was hosted again to showcase the creativity of leading Thai designers, including Asava. For its Autumn/Winter 2022 Collection, titled 'Time to Focus on What Matters,' Asava intends to emphasize the perspective of the term 'focus' refers to the unwavering lifestyle like the trait of Asava. 

For this year's winter collection, Asava still sends all their signatures down the runway from the simple yet elegant casual attires to the exquisite gowns, of course, flattering ones with a cape. The collection's shirtdress and outerwear reflect the brand's essence, the combination of masculinity and femininity. Voluminous pieces are needed in their fans' wardrobes and don't forget quilted robes worn in several looks to add more winter vibes. Aside from Asava's staples; white, black, and neutral hues; there are also vibrant colors, making this winter more alive.